Bond St. Sushi Beverly Hills, CA (Seeing Red-sikowkski!)

SEEING RED-SIKOWSKI!!

Sometimes I find a chef I freak out about and then I go back and discover
they're off their game....or they've taken a wrong creative turn...or
they've gotten rid of that thing for which guests return time and time
again without finding an appropriate new player... So far, Redsikowski has
made none of those errors; he is consistent, inspired and playful.

Case in point, I went to Spago (SPAGO people) recently and had a series
of plates that were delicious, but sort of un-inspired. If one is paying
that much money shouldn't dishes be created that, upon arrival at the
table, cause even the most snooty diner's jaw to drop just a little?
Don't get me wrong, my toes have curled for the illustrious Wolfgang in
the past. But this last time... (Dare I say it?) My jaw just...it didn't
drop. And I really thought it would...

But at Redsikowski's Bond St...

OK, listen to this. Redsikowski is doing ridiculous things at BS. He
serves his melty Wagyu beef with shaved black and white truffle, perfect
little mashed potato CUBES, carrot SPHERES that burst with jus and SHAVED
french onion soup chips...there's actually not a proper description for
the chips. They're like... super yummy flavor accelerators. And
underneath it all is a piccolini mushroom and truffle sauce and a touch of
sweet ponzu. All the little bits and sauce amounts come together so that
each bite of beef has just the right accoutrement... and I'm sorry, biting
into a mashed potato cube is just plain fun. But the greatest thing is
that, even with mixing in all these inventive elements and artfully
balancing sweet with savory, Redsikowski never loses sight of the fact
that the dish is, at its heart, a comforting, fulfilling meat and potatoes
meal. That, people, is a fine line to dance upon.

Also of note: the pot'o'crab. Crab is a delicate meat to begin with. But
Redsikowski found a way to surround it, in its own little cast iron pot,
with an even more delicate, frothy, buttery broth made from the crab
stock. The liquid is pungent and steaming and lumps of crab melt in your
mouth. It's rich but not cloying because the hint of Meyer lemon and
accompanying bites of squash and zuchini play a perfect counterpoint.

Also, if you like panna cotta, try the "cereal" dessert. It is a silky
layer of vanilla panna cotta with seasonal fruits and chunks of
crumb-topping-like "cereal" drizzled, at table, with a sweet soy milk.
Redsikowski even makes fun of his own Nth degree creativity by serving the
cereal on a Sunday Morning Paper.

Standing Stars: The crazy good 24 Hour Sous Vide (How does he have it turn
out so good every time?!) with powdered olive oil and artichoke foam, the
aforementioned Sockeye Tuna Tarts, and the lobster Tempura, which is light
and complimented by a deliciously tart dipping sauce, peppery cilantro and
jalapeno shavings.

ALERT: If you ever see that Chef Brian Redsikowski is having a tasting
menu! Go! I lucked out and, on a whim, showed up on TRUFFLE night!
Eeegads man!

Genius is such a lame word these days, everyone uses it, usually when they
are overstating something or trying to impress people with the assumption
that they themselves are salient enough to define just what genius is...
So, in an effort to not go overboard I'll just say this; I think
Redsikowski could be a foodie freakazoid with some definite genius in
there... You decide.

The Loving Critic